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1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique, Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914, Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet, GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.