Adresses in Florence

16-room design retreat over Europe's largest private garden

Boisterous 1913 San Marco trattoria that wins locals first

Michelin-starred dining in Palazzo Portinari Salviati

Florence's oldest historic cafe, founded 1733

Tuscan table on the ground floor of Palazzo Antinori

Tiny organic salotto for plant-leaning breakfast and lunch near Pitti

Florence's last great enoteca, standing-room since 1880

Red-velvet, Pergola-theatre seats, the see-and-be-seen Sant'Ambrogio bistrot

The flagship of the Picchi culinary universe at Sant'Ambrogio

The affordable face of Fabio Picchi's Sant'Ambrogio cult kitchen

Wine-bar bistro of handmade pasta a step from the Duomo

Specialty roastery and coffee laboratory in San Frediano

Francesco Sanapo's specialty-coffee roaster on the artisan left bank

The original 2013 specialty-coffee bar minutes from Santa Croce

Florence's legendary flourless chocolate cake, since the 1980s

Family wine shop and tasting since 1934, beyond the tourist belt

Wood-panelled wine bar by the old San Miniato gate, 600+ labels

Sibling-run natural-wine kitchen near Piazza Santo Spirito

Mid-century-art design hotel on Piazza Santa Maria Novella

Tiny Oltrarno gelateria of organic, seasonal, natural-colour gelato

Art Nouveau bolthole with a handwritten daily menu on Piazza Ghiberti

Michelin-listed kitchen bridging Basilicata and Tuscany

No-frills San Frediano trattoria for peposo and fiorentina

Twenty-year Neapolitan wood-fired pizzeria near Sant'Ambrogio

Frescoed 15th-century villa retreat in the Fiesole hills

Tiny exposed-brick enoteca for small Tuscan growers and cured plates

Candlelit Oltrarno bistro-cum-wine-bar, modern Florentine since 2002

Twenty-room townhouse hotel on Piazza Santa Maria Novella

Michelin-starred farm-to-plate dining under the San Niccolo tower

Neighbourhood wine shop and aperitivo room in Le Cure

All-day concept space: restaurant, cocktail bar, florist and design store

Panoramic Fiesole terrace with the classic view over the duomo

Café, aperitivo and culture inside a Renzo Piano-restored former prison

Revered since-1992 wine bar of small independent growers near Ponte Vecchio

Art-bookshop and vegetarian kitchen tucked behind Santa Croce

Tiny Lebanese saj kitchen with home-cook authenticity

World's-50-Best cocktails inside a 13th-century palazzo

Cult San Frediano craft-cocktail bar with an irreverent list

Shabby-chic neighbourhood wine bar in Le Cure

Made-in-Italy cocktail bar of all-Italian spirits, speakeasy mood

Twentieth-century and contemporary art in a former Leopoldine hospital

The antiquarian's jewel-box museum, blue walls and the Devil's bronze

Greenhouse dining room reinventing Tuscan cooking in Sant'Ambrogio

The world's oldest pharmacy-perfumery, in continuous craft since 1221

Marco Stabile's creative Italian table behind the Uffizi

Tuscan osteria in a medieval crypt off Via San Niccolò

Florence's only sit-down tripperia, lampredotto done seriously

Old-Tuscan tavern right on Fiesole's main piazza

Florence's leading stage for international contemporary art

Artisan pastry shop in San Frediano since 1949

1928 pasticceria-cafe with Piemontese roots near Annunziata

Ferragamo-family riverside hotel with Michele Bonan's 1950s-cinema rooms

Belle-Epoque truffle-panini and Antinori wine bar since 1885

The schiacciata benchmark of Florence, on Piazza San Marco since 1925

Hidden 1920s-speakeasy cocktail bar off Santo Spirito

Florentine-favoured trattoria on Piazza San Marco by the Accademia

Two-Michelin-star room inside a Byzantine tower by the Duomo

Charcoal-grilled Ottoman and Anatolian cooking, the city's credible Turkish room

Vintage San Frediano bakery-grocer with an on-site oven

Greenhouse wine bar in a riverside garden by Porta San Frediano

Two-Michelin-star farm-to-plate cooking from Borgo Santo Pietro's organic estate

Working leather school and atelier inside the Santa Croce friary

Cult gourmet-panini counter by the Sant'Ambrogio market

Antonello Sardi's Michelin-starred garden room above Florence

Peruvian-Nikkei cooking that grew from a cevicheria into a gourmet destination

Eclectic 13-room Oltrarno B&B of salvaged antiques and frescoes

Storied Piazza della Passera trattoria with its famous pear fiocchetti

Family-run since 1945, the Oltrarno trattoria Florentines and insiders book

Florentine institution and wine cellar since 1901

Long-standing Oltrarno trattoria off Piazza del Carmine

1956 family trattoria, the homecooked heart of Santo Spirito

Family canteen behind the Mercato Centrale since 1953

Family-run Florentine canteen at Porta San Frediano since 1956

Lunch-only 1915 trattoria by San Lorenzo, run by the fourth generation

Since-1869 'Il Troia', home of the butter chicken and tortino

Renaissance monastery hotel and the Antesi loggia restaurant above Florence

Late-night neighbourhood wine room on Borgo San Frediano

Florence's gelato dynasty, the same family since 1929

Carpenter's-workshop cafe-bar on Piazza Santo Spirito with live music

Mother-and-son counter for handmade Tuscan dishes in San Niccolo

Campo di Marte trattoria on a quiet gourmet path since 1952

Boutique enoteca facing Palazzo Pitti, 3,000 labels deep

1981 San Niccolo bar-bistrot with a hidden garden

Contemporary Sant'Ambrogio trattoria facing the market

Lunch counter inside the Sant'Ambrogio market where Florentines eat