Locali affini a Dounias (Ntounias)

Stone-oven Cretan institution in the centre of Vamos

Clay-pot-over-coals taverna under the plane tree in Gavalochori

Antikristo over open fire in a 200-year-old stone building near Vamos

The Splantzia seafood mezedopoleio locals queue for

Grocer-meze-room on the restored square of Archanes

The locals' seafood ouzeri by the Venetian port

A modern rakadiko where locals actually eat

Cliffside Cretan plates beneath the Fortezza

Tiny market-driven kitchen, the chef's daily haul is the menu

All-day Greek bistro blending Hellenic and Levantine flavours