Locali in Paris

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes, and serve them well.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street, the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie, painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant, Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730, Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo