Locali in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes, and serve them well.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street, the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie, painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant, Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001, matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730, Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo