Intimate in Bodrum

Torba village's family-run Aegean and Turkish kitchen, twenty-plus years on Atatürk Caddesi, manti and çiğ börek

Akyarlar harbour boutique-hotel kitchen on Liman Caddesi, Cretan-paste mussel rice and grilled fish at the village register, with rooms upstairs.

The Alparslan family's clean-and-quiet pansiyon on Yalıçiftlik Caddesi, three generations on the strand, café meals on the deck, no destination noise.

A restored stone-house art village on the Yakaköy ridge, galleries, ateliers, an Ottoman ethnographic room and a film bar

A small Türkbükü artisan bakery doing serious sourdough on a side street the second-homers have learned to find

A restored nineteenth-century olive-oil mill in Ortakent, run as a wine and coffee house with a working press