Bistro in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony — zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes