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Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision, the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion, Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood, no meat.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay, chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion, Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles, chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.