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William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay — chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.