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1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

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Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

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Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room