Στέκια in Florence

Boisterous 1913 San Marco trattoria that wins locals first

Florence's last great enoteca, standing-room since 1880

Wine-bar bistro of handmade pasta a step from the Duomo

Francesco Sanapo's specialty-coffee roaster on the artisan left bank

Tiny exposed-brick enoteca for small Tuscan growers and cured plates

Café, aperitivo and culture inside a Renzo Piano-restored former prison

Art-bookshop and vegetarian kitchen tucked behind Santa Croce

Tiny Lebanese saj kitchen with home-cook authenticity

Shabby-chic neighbourhood wine bar in Le Cure

Twentieth-century and contemporary art in a former Leopoldine hospital

Tuscan osteria in a medieval crypt off Via San Niccolò

Florence's only sit-down tripperia, lampredotto done seriously

Old-Tuscan tavern right on Fiesole's main piazza

Florence's leading stage for international contemporary art

Florentine-favoured trattoria on Piazza San Marco by the Accademia

Charcoal-grilled Ottoman and Anatolian cooking, the city's credible Turkish room

Greenhouse wine bar in a riverside garden by Porta San Frediano

1981 San Niccolo bar-bistrot with a hidden garden