Στέκια in Florence

16-room design retreat over Europe's largest private garden

Boisterous 1913 San Marco trattoria that wins locals first

Michelin-starred dining in Palazzo Portinari Salviati

Florence's oldest historic cafe, founded 1733

Florence's last great enoteca, standing-room since 1880

Red-velvet, Pergola-theatre seats, the see-and-be-seen Sant'Ambrogio bistrot

The affordable face of Fabio Picchi's Sant'Ambrogio cult kitchen

Wine-bar bistro of handmade pasta a step from the Duomo

Francesco Sanapo's specialty-coffee roaster on the artisan left bank

Mid-century-art design hotel on Piazza Santa Maria Novella

Tiny Oltrarno gelateria of organic, seasonal, natural-colour gelato

Frescoed 15th-century villa retreat in the Fiesole hills

Tiny exposed-brick enoteca for small Tuscan growers and cured plates

Candlelit Oltrarno bistro-cum-wine-bar, modern Florentine since 2002

Twenty-room townhouse hotel on Piazza Santa Maria Novella

All-day concept space: restaurant, cocktail bar, florist and design store

Panoramic Fiesole terrace with the classic view over the duomo

Café, aperitivo and culture inside a Renzo Piano-restored former prison

Art-bookshop and vegetarian kitchen tucked behind Santa Croce

Tiny Lebanese saj kitchen with home-cook authenticity

World's-50-Best cocktails inside a 13th-century palazzo

Shabby-chic neighbourhood wine bar in Le Cure

Twentieth-century and contemporary art in a former Leopoldine hospital

The antiquarian's jewel-box museum, blue walls and the Devil's bronze

Greenhouse dining room reinventing Tuscan cooking in Sant'Ambrogio

The world's oldest pharmacy-perfumery, in continuous craft since 1221

Marco Stabile's creative Italian table behind the Uffizi

Tuscan osteria in a medieval crypt off Via San Niccolò

Florence's only sit-down tripperia, lampredotto done seriously

Old-Tuscan tavern right on Fiesole's main piazza

Florence's leading stage for international contemporary art

Ferragamo-family riverside hotel with Michele Bonan's 1950s-cinema rooms

Belle-Epoque truffle-panini and Antinori wine bar since 1885

Florentine-favoured trattoria on Piazza San Marco by the Accademia

Charcoal-grilled Ottoman and Anatolian cooking, the city's credible Turkish room

Greenhouse wine bar in a riverside garden by Porta San Frediano

Working leather school and atelier inside the Santa Croce friary

Eclectic 13-room Oltrarno B&B of salvaged antiques and frescoes

Family-run since 1945, the Oltrarno trattoria Florentines and insiders book

Long-standing Oltrarno trattoria off Piazza del Carmine

Renaissance monastery hotel and the Antesi loggia restaurant above Florence

Florence's gelato dynasty, the same family since 1929

Mother-and-son counter for handmade Tuscan dishes in San Niccolo

Campo di Marte trattoria on a quiet gourmet path since 1952

Boutique enoteca facing Palazzo Pitti, 3,000 labels deep

1981 San Niccolo bar-bistrot with a hidden garden

Contemporary Sant'Ambrogio trattoria facing the market