Στέκια in İzmir

Bib Gourmand Bosnian börek inside a 17th-century Kemeraltı han

İzmir's third-wave benchmark, roasting its own beans

Waterfront fresh-fish kitchen on the Foça promenade

Alsancak meyhane prized for flauntingly-fresh seafood

Hand-pounded dibek Turkish coffee, three generations deep

Foça harbour fish house locals defend over the strip

Eski Foça's harbourside fish house since 1984

75-year-old Basmane meyhane, rakı-meze the old way

New Urla cuisine from olive forest to table, in a stone Greek theatre

An 1881 neoclassical merchant's house on Foça harbour

City painting-and-sculpture museum inside the Kültür Sanat Fabrikası

31-room design boutique on the Kordon, a converted bank building

Aegean home cooking tucked inside a Kemeraltı han

Kemeraltı's reference kumru, sourced ingredient by ingredient

The kumru the Karşıyaka set grew up on

Convivial chalkboard Aegean cooking next to the vines

Barista-champion roastery in Bostanlı

Owner-run Alsancak wine bar with Turkish and grilled small plates

Levantine Alsancak bakery, croissants done as well as anywhere in Turkey

The first meyhane of the Sığacık kale, Greek-taverna soul

Levantine-Italian dining in the Mistral tower

Italy-inspired, unirrigated estate making Turkey's unusual varietals

Warm family-run fish-and-meze house in the Sığacık kale

Osman Sezener's open-fire farm-to-table within an olive grove

1965 patisserie in a restored Levantine house

Chef-driven Italian on the ninth floor of the Swissôtel

Historic Alsancak patisserie since 1957

İzmir's classic patisserie and boyoz, since 1957

Fish-market seafood at honest prices in Sığacık's castle village

Turkey's landmark Sunday slow-food producers' market

Landmark garden hotel with a serious 800-work art collection

1907 stone elevator and terrace over the Gulf of İzmir

Terroir-driven Aegean cooking and rooms in Kuşçular village

Cortados and siphon brews from an Alsancak roastery bar

Stone vineyard retreat the NYT put on the map

Kocadağ-slope winery with a tasting room and small inn

İzmir's first two-star table, among Urla's vines

İzmir's sesame gevrek, a local point of pride