Στέκια in İzmir

Bib Gourmand Bosnian börek inside a 17th-century Kemeraltı han

İzmir's third-wave benchmark, roasting its own beans

Waterfront fresh-fish kitchen on the Foça promenade

Alsancak meyhane prized for flauntingly-fresh seafood

Hand-pounded dibek Turkish coffee, three generations deep

Foça harbour fish house locals defend over the strip

Eski Foça's harbourside fish house since 1984

Architect-founded hub of İzmir's coffee community

New Urla cuisine from olive forest to table, in a stone Greek theatre

İzmir's söğüş benchmark since 1975, by Hisar Mosque

An 1881 neoclassical merchant's house on Foça harbour

31-room design boutique on the Kordon, a converted bank building

Aegean home cooking tucked inside a Kemeraltı han

Sand-brewed Turkish coffee inside the 1740s caravanserai

Kemeraltı's reference kumru, sourced ingredient by ingredient

The kumru the Karşıyaka set grew up on

Convivial chalkboard Aegean cooking next to the vines

Barista-champion roastery in Bostanlı

Levantine Alsancak bakery, croissants done as well as anywhere in Turkey

Kemeraltı's kelle söğüş master since 1975

The first meyhane of the Sığacık kale, Greek-taverna soul

Levantine-Italian dining in the Mistral tower

Italy-inspired, unirrigated estate making Turkey's unusual varietals

Warm family-run fish-and-meze house in the Sığacık kale

Osman Sezener's open-fire farm-to-table within an olive grove

Serkan Sağsöz's Bostanlı micro-roastery

Historic Alsancak patisserie since 1957

İzmir's classic patisserie and boyoz, since 1957

Fish-market seafood at honest prices in Sığacık's castle village

Landmark garden hotel with a serious 800-work art collection

Terroir-driven Aegean cooking and rooms in Kuşçular village

Cortados and siphon brews from an Alsancak roastery bar

Stone vineyard retreat the NYT put on the map

Kocadağ-slope winery with a tasting room and small inn

İzmir's sesame gevrek, a local point of pride

75-year-old Basmane meyhane, rakı-meze the old way

City painting-and-sculpture museum inside the Kültür Sanat Fabrikası

Owner-run Alsancak wine bar with Turkish and grilled small plates

Turkey's landmark Sunday slow-food producers' market

1907 stone elevator and terrace over the Gulf of İzmir