Στέκια in Lisbon

Candlelit Italo-Portuguese small plates with a tight natural list

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

Mid-century landmark hotel above the park with a serious dining stable

Long-running hidden cocktail bar in a Belle Epoque room

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

Low-lit cocktail and oyster bar themed around the printed word

Grand brasserie of altitude inside a centenary Avenida theatre

Brazilian-accented wine bar and petiscos in a leafy Principe Real corner

Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais

Adults-only design hotel with the best terrace over Alfama's rooftops

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Globe-trotting small plates and an all-natural drinks list

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Fifteen-room townhouse hotel with a garden-fed kitchen

1933 grand hotel anchoring the avenue's luxury axis

Restored 18th-century palace above the Bica miradouro

Belgian-Portuguese dining in a 17th-century convent cloister

Chef Hugo Brito's deconstructed Portugal in a former Alfama butcher shop

Sleek Marvila brewpub with a view of the silos

Palace-turned-suites hotel atop Bairro Alto