Στέκια in Lisbon

Candlelit Italo-Portuguese small plates with a tight natural list

Jose Avillez's two-Michelin-star contemporary Portuguese flagship

Tiny market-driven bistro from two young chef-owners

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Marble-and-wood petiscos between tasca and fine dining

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

The brewery that started Lisbon's Beer District

Wood-fired pizza and sushi on the CCB roof terrace

Mid-century landmark hotel above the park with a serious dining stable

Long-running hidden cocktail bar in a Belle Epoque room

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

Former drugstore turned slow-food wine bar

London-born regional Indian, Bib Gourmand in Chiado

Low-lit cocktail and oyster bar themed around the printed word

Counter-driven Japanese tavern in Principe Real

Grand brasserie of altitude inside a centenary Avenida theatre

Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

The pastel de nata, made to order behind glass

The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue

Lisbon's oldest restaurant, Pessoa's café since 1782

Adults-only design hotel with the best terrace over Alfama's rooftops

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Progressive Alentejo and talha wine at a U-shaped marble bar

Decades-old Alentejano specialist for roast kid and rice

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

1943 pastelaria, repeat 'best pastel de nata' winner

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Destination natural-wine bar and shop by Jardim da Estrela

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Globe-trotting small plates and an all-natural drinks list

Natural-wine bar and merceria in the heart of the bairro

Wood-fired Mediterranean, vinyl and natural wine in quiet Lapa

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Fifteen-room townhouse hotel with a garden-fed kitchen

Henrique Sa Pessoa's tapas-and-petiscos vermouth bar

Vitor Sobral's reinvented corner tavern

1933 grand hotel anchoring the avenue's luxury axis

Restored 18th-century palace above the Bica miradouro

Brazilian-founded restaurant, bar and gallery for sharing plates

Charcoal ribs and communal benches in a Mouraria alley

Belgian-Portuguese dining in a 17th-century convent cloister

Chef Hugo Brito's deconstructed Portugal in a former Alfama butcher shop

Peruvian cooking by Diego Munoz with the Avillez group

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Sleek Marvila brewpub with a view of the silos

Palace-turned-suites hotel atop Bairro Alto