Στέκια in Madrid

Persian market cuisine from a one-woman kitchen

Calle Argumosa's alternative tapas terrace

1827 taberna on Cervantes' old street

The Rastro's snail institution since 1942

A 1920 taberna reborn, ibérico-and-truffle croquetas and noble menú del día

All-day West-Coast cafe with in-house bakery and La Cabra coffee

Communal-table specialty coffee with an Asian-vintage touch

Lavapiés roaster supplying the city's best specialty bars

1929-rooted tin-bar taberna by the Retiro

Bohemian all-day kitchen with a Michelin-pedigree hand

Bohemian Basque pintxo bar on Cava Baja since the 1980s

Malasaña's mid-century living room, all day into the night

The credible Turkish kitchen Madrid actually has

Chueca's real food market with a rooftop terrace

Lavapiés's real neo-Mudéjar market, from fishmongers to natural wine

Chamberí's 1933 market reborn as a boundary-pushing food hall

Hola Coffee's specialty café and bakehouse on the Conde Duque edge

Beirut-rooted Levantine cooking, modernised in Chueca

The canonical Spanish painting collection, Velázquez, Goya, Bosch

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

The collection that fills the gaps, eight centuries on one walk

Artisan sourdough bakery across from the Conde Duque centre

Madrid's second-oldest tavern, beloved of Lorca's generation

Cava Baja vermut taberna with the secret 'Manuela' pour, since 1996

Toma's Chamberí roastery room near Plaza de Olavide

Conde Duque specialty roastery cafe with natural wine after dark

Spain's exclusive La Cabra outpost for coffee and bakehouse

1892 bodega, vermut de grifo and one of Madrid's best tortillas

Reborn 1950s vermouth tavern on an 8-metre marble bar

Plaza de San Ildefonso specialty café and work-friendly hub

Tiny Georgian bistrot for khachapuri and khinkali

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés

The roaster that lit Madrid's specialty-coffee fuse, since 2012