Στέκια in Lavapiés

Arzábal's garden restaurant inside the Reina Sofía

Calle Argumosa's alternative tapas terrace

Grilled sardines and El Rastro Sunday ritual since 1977

Natural wine and vinyl inside Mercado de San Fernando

The anchor of Madrid's gallery street in Lavapiés

Lavapiés roaster supplying the city's best specialty bars

Lavapiés's real neo-Mudéjar market, from fishmongers to natural wine

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

The barrio's benchmark for biryani and cheese naan

A former adult cinema reborn as a cultural bar-cinema

Madrid's oldest tavern, untouched since before 1787

Lavapiés's avant-garde cultural centre with a rooftop terrace

Home-style Senegalese on Plaza Nelson Mandela

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés