Στέκια in Milan

Milan's 4th-century Romanesque heart, founded by St Ambrose

Italy's first urban winery, with a Porta Romana wine bar

An 1896 enoteca on Via Paolo Sarpi opening hundreds of labels by the glass

Carlo Cracco's Michelin-starred flagship in the Galleria

Refined all-day bistrot on patrician Via Vincenzo Monti

A Parisian bistrot inside a working Brera florist

Rem Koolhaas-designed contemporary-art campus (skip Bar Luce)

Milan's cult seafood room, glamour without compromise on the fish

All-female micro-roastery for serious specialty coffee

Historic Brera enoteca in a former Augustinian refectory

Milan's pioneering third-wave specialty coffee bar

Milan's 1817 caffè-pasticceria, on Montenapoleone since 1950

Southern-Italian pastry and proper espresso between Repubblica and Porta Venezia

The original 1824 pasticceria, Belle Époque intact

Artisan bakery and pasticceria, the Porta Venezia breakfast standard

The Marchesi-legacy restaurant beside La Scala

Neoclassical design boutique a block off Montenapoleone

Farm-to-table in a restored 17th-century cascina

Two-Michelin-star tasting at a counter above Piazza Duomo

Noma alumni's Scandi-Italian specialty coffee and pastry under the Gae Aulenti towers