Στέκια in Milan

Milan's 4th-century Romanesque heart, founded by St Ambrose

The home of the Milanese aperitivo, since 1915

Italy's first urban winery, with a Porta Romana wine bar

An 1896 enoteca on Via Paolo Sarpi opening hundreds of labels by the glass

Carlo Cracco's Michelin-starred flagship in the Galleria

Refined all-day bistrot on patrician Via Vincenzo Monti

A Parisian bistrot inside a working Brera florist

Rem Koolhaas-designed contemporary-art campus (skip Bar Luce)

Milan's cult seafood room, glamour without compromise on the fish

David Chipperfield's culture museum in a former Ansaldo factory

Historic Brera enoteca in a former Augustinian refectory

Milan's pioneering third-wave specialty coffee bar

Milan's 1817 caffè-pasticceria, on Montenapoleone since 1950

Southern-Italian pastry and proper espresso between Repubblica and Porta Venezia

The original 1824 pasticceria, Belle Époque intact

Artisan bakery and pasticceria, the Porta Venezia breakfast standard

Milan's great art gallery in the Palazzo di Brera

A former factory turned one of Europe's great free contemporary-art spaces

The Marchesi-legacy restaurant beside La Scala

Neoclassical design boutique a block off Montenapoleone

Farm-to-table in a restored 17th-century cascina

Two-Michelin-star tasting at a counter above Piazza Duomo