Στέκια in Milan

Italy's first urban winery, with a Porta Romana wine bar

An 1896 enoteca on Via Paolo Sarpi opening hundreds of labels by the glass

Refined all-day bistrot on patrician Via Vincenzo Monti

Rem Koolhaas-designed contemporary-art campus (skip Bar Luce)

Southern-Italian pastry and proper espresso between Repubblica and Porta Venezia

Milan's great art gallery in the Palazzo di Brera

Farm-to-table in a restored 17th-century cascina