Στέκια in Milan

Eritrean dining staged like a desert tent on Via Melzo

Giorgio Armani's own fashion museum in a 1950s grain silo

The 1947 cocktail temple where the Negroni Sbagliato was born

Brera's artists' bar since 1911

Acquabella's natural-wine neighbourhood bar with Mediterranean plates

The Pinacoteca di Brera's own bistrot-café

Italy's first urban winery, with a Porta Romana wine bar

An 1896 enoteca on Via Paolo Sarpi opening hundreds of labels by the glass

Luca Catalfamo's izakaya-style ramen counter in Isola

Sommelier Jacopo Ercolani's natural-wine bar in the heart of Isola

Lebanese meze in a warm Brera-edge room

Three generations of fierce Calabrian cooking off Porta Romana

Andrea Berton's cocktail-and-pizza idea, done seriously in Brera

Refined all-day bistrot on patrician Via Vincenzo Monti

Rem Koolhaas-designed contemporary-art campus (skip Bar Luce)

Giorgio Caruso's soft, slow-risen Neapolitan-style pizza

Noma alumni's Scandi-Italian specialty coffee and pastry under the Gae Aulenti towers

Vintage-apothecary cocktail room on the Naviglio Grande

Italy's largest science museum in a 16th-century monastery

Diego Rossi's wine-led osteria of cicchetti and ~200 natural labels

Milanese classics on a site serving food since 1885

Southern-Italian pastry and proper espresso between Repubblica and Porta Venezia

Milan's great art gallery in the Palazzo di Brera

Since 1984, the founding Eritrean table of Milan's 'Little Asmara'

Eritrean and Ethiopian cooking with a traditional coffee ceremony

The bar that brought fresh-ingredient cocktails to Milan in 2002

Diego Rossi's head-to-tail trattoria, the cult Milanese table

Salon-style cocktail and natural-wine bistrot on the Navigli

Farm-to-table in a restored 17th-century cascina

Nearly 30 years of true Eritrean cooking on Via Melzo