Στέκια in Le Marais

Argentinian carnivore room in a former butcher shop, relaunched with Mauro Colagreco's hand on the menu.

Mazouz brothers' Marais cocktail bar, North African-Pop Art mash-up, since 2001, with a hidden courtyard.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.