Στέκια in Paris

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street — the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.