Στέκια in Paris

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street — the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul — twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro — checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Counter-seat Korean — chef Kim Kwang-Loc's mandu and tartares, fashion-week regulars on stools.

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil — Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001 — matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.