Plekken in Belém

Marble-and-wood petiscos between tasca and fine dining

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

Riverfront museum of art, architecture and technology

The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue

Light-filled all-day café for creative brunch in Belém

Progressive Alentejo and talha wine at a U-shaped marble bar