Plekken in Naples

Naples' most-decorated dough, second-best pizzeria in Italy

Ciro Salvo's featherweight dough on Piazza Sannazaro

An 1837 sfogliatella house by Porta Capuana

Home-cooked Naples in the alleys of Spaccanapoli

Tutino brothers' tradition-rooted pizza on Piazza Mercato

Ciro Oliva's Sanità pizzeria, neighbourhood made gastronomy

Enzo Coccia's scholarly take on Neapolitan pizza

Bib Gourmand comfort cooking by the Riviera di Chiaia gardens

A half-century family osteria behind Teatro Bellini

The historic-centre room that made ragù its whole religion

Contemporary pizza on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore

The Via Toledo birthplace of the Neapolitan sfogliatella

Tiny natural-wine room on the Gradoni di Chiaia

Raffaele Bonetta's contemporary pizza, now in the Vomero

1905 pastry institution on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore