Lugares in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

Naturophile cave-à-manger by the canal, visiting chefs, no reservations, minimum-intervention list.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street, the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008, David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway, World's 50 Best Bars regular.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Sentier rum den behind a grilled-cheese counter, Joseph Akhavan's 100-plus-rum library, Diffords-listed.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

The wine bar inside the Septime universe, 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.

11e cave-à-manger with one of Paris's deepest natural-wine cellars, 250+ cuvées.