French in Paris

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.