Restaurant in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul, twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.