Santo António de Alfama

Tucked into a small square below the castle, this long-running bistro famously declares 'no fado or sardines,' setting itself apart from the neighbourhood's tourist-show restaurants. The vine-draped courtyard is one of Alfama's loveliest summer rooms, the walls lined with black-and-white film and theatre portraits. The menu runs petiscos and Portuguese classics for a more sophisticated, local-leaning crowd.