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A 40-cover kitchen-and-natural-wine warehouse under the Bermondsey arches, chef Steve Williams

Dean Street's no-music, no-mobiles holdout, the Soho the audience first read about in the 80s

Shoreditch's whisky reference, 250 bottles, no cocktails, a single felled-oak table

Milroy's reborn under the No. 3 door, Greek Street's whisky merchant and bookcase-speakeasy bar since 1964, rebranded 2024

Ed Wilson's Columbia Road natural-wine bistro, the East End's most consistent neighbourhood kitchen

Remy Savage's Bauhaus-precise cocktail room on Kingsland Road

P. Franco's successor at 107 Lower Clapton, a 25-cover wine shop with a hot plate at the back, chef residencies kept

The 1893 hotel bar that wrote the cocktail manual the rest of London still reads

Mr Lyan's South Bank flagship, the first 3-PIN bar in the Pinnacle Guide, Thames at the window

World's 50 Best No.5, two rooms that split the modern London bar in half

Frith Street's 1959 jazz room, the canonical London jazz club, two sets a night, low ceiling, red lamps

Wentworth Street's unmarked basement, the City fringe speakeasy that does not need a velvet rope

Hoxton Square's basement, the small, no-fuss cocktail room the trade has booked since 2010

Bermondsey Street's standing-room Spanish bar since 2011, José Pizarro's pintxos counter

The wine-magazine bar, Mark Andrew and Daniel Keeling's Bloomsbury original since 2015

Sam and Sam Clark's tapas-bar sister to Moro, eight metres along the same row, the small-plate version of the same kitchen.

Agostino Perrone's silver-trolley martini and a room that has spent a decade at or near the top of the World's 50 Best Bars list.

Two-floor Old Compton Street cocktail room, aperitivo bar upstairs, three-hundred-whisky lounge below

The Cut's no-bookings gastropub, what Waterloo eats before the National Theatre

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse, the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to