Chocolatería San Ginés

Tucked in a passageway by the San Ginés church, this 1894 chocolatería has served churros and thick hot chocolate at its white-marble tables around the clock for over a century, immortalised in Galdós and Valle-Inclán. Yes it is famous, but the product, the room and the late-night ritual are entirely real. A 4am or post-theatre stop that locals still keep.