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Early-20th-century seafood institution on Malausséna

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1921 covered market hall: cheese, charcuterie, butchers, catch

Socca pilgrimage near the port since 1923

Market-driven bistro by Nicolas Mendjisky, opposite the hall

Niçois-Sicilian family trattoria, heart of la Libé

Handmade pasta and pizza by two well-travelled chefs

Michelin Bib Gourmand bistrot on the prettiest lane in the old town

Open-kitchen market bistro off Place Rossetti, Bib Gourmand

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Nicole Rubi's celebrated Provençal table by the Opéra

Pop-art-walled old-town bistro the locals guard

Family rotisserie of spit-roasted meats near Place Rossetti

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Brothers' laundromat-turned-natural-wine kitchen in the old town

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