French in Paris

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.