Lokale in Paris

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

Jean-Marc Notelet's chalkboard bistro, spice-forward cuisine du marché near l'Étoile.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Franck Baranger's bistronomy benchmark, Bib Gourmand on a Pigalle backstreet.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.