French in Paris

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784, historic monument with a kitchen in transition

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.