Le Grand Véfour

Walk under the Palais-Royal arcades and the gilt mirrors, painted ceilings and red velvet of Le Grand Véfour are exactly what Colette, Cocteau and Hugo sat at — the brass plaques on each banquette name them. Founded 1784, it is a French historic monument as much as a restaurant. Guy Martin steered the kitchen for thirty-four years and steps down end of 2025; Laurent de Gourcuff's group has taken over and chef Shintaro Awa is the announced successor. Go for the room and the continuity rather than the menu of the moment — this is dining inside a museum that still serves lunch.