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The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

Mexican street-food institution on rue Eugène Varlin, Canal Saint-Martin's handmade-tortilla bench since 2011.

The bistro mythology lives at #32 rue du Vertbois, controversial, expensive, irreplaceable.

The 1896 original, Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

1906 Art Nouveau bouillon, Mucha-style nymphs, listed monument, Édith Piaf's table.

1898 Art Nouveau dining room, classified historic monument, Belle Époque bouillon revived.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion, Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision, the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Argentinian carnivore room in a former butcher shop, relaunched with Mauro Colagreco's hand on the menu.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Marais Korean BBQ, chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990, tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul, twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.