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The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

The 1896 original, Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.