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1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

The 1896 original — Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

1906 Art Nouveau bouillon — Mucha-style nymphs, listed monument, Édith Piaf's table.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion — Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

Jean-Marc Notelet's chalkboard bistro — spice-forward cuisine du marché near l'Étoile.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Counter-seat Korean — chef Kim Kwang-Loc's mandu and tartares, fashion-week regulars on stools.