Bistro in Paris

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière — a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet — GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie — Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room — marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie — Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro — fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house — heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Franck Baranger's bistronomy benchmark — Bib Gourmand on a Pigalle backstreet.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony — zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro — checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes