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Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008, David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.