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Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution — bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro — checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.