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The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.