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The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914 — Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990 — tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion — Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard