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The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990, tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion, Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.