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Mazouz brothers' Marais cocktail bar — North African-Pop Art mash-up, since 2001, with a hidden courtyard.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion — Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision — the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

The bistro mythology lives at #32 rue du Vertbois — controversial, expensive, irreplaceable.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique — Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.