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Mazouz brothers' Marais cocktail bar — North African-Pop Art mash-up, since 2001, with a hidden courtyard.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion — Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision — the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

The bistro mythology lives at #32 rue du Vertbois — controversial, expensive, irreplaceable.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique — Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

Christian Le Squer's three-Michelin showcase inside George V — the textbook for Paris haute cuisine.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood — no meat.

Simone Zanoni's Mediterranean-Italian one-Michelin at George V — the palace alternative to a tasting menu.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Yannick Alléno's three-Michelin in a pavilion at the Champs-Élysées gardens — the sauce-extraction reference.

Yasunari Okazaki's two-Michelin sushi counter inside Pavillon Ledoyen — twelve seats, ikejime fish.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

The Plaza's restored heritage-French dining room — recipes excavated from two-and-a-half centuries of menus.

Two Michelin since 1946 — the institution where Paris learned modern restaurant service.

Place de la Madeleine institution since 1839 — Hugo Bourny's contemporary take on the Art Nouveau room.

Stéphanie Le Quellec's two-Michelin counter-front room on avenue Matignon.