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Mazouz brothers' Marais cocktail bar, North African-Pop Art mash-up, since 2001, with a hidden courtyard.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion, Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision, the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

The bistro mythology lives at #32 rue du Vertbois, controversial, expensive, irreplaceable.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

Christian Le Squer's three-Michelin showcase inside George V, the textbook for Paris haute cuisine.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood, no meat.

Simone Zanoni's Mediterranean-Italian one-Michelin at George V, the palace alternative to a tasting menu.

Three-Michelin since 1996, the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Yannick Alléno's three-Michelin in a pavilion at the Champs-Élysées gardens, the sauce-extraction reference.

Yasunari Okazaki's two-Michelin sushi counter inside Pavillon Ledoyen, twelve seats, ikejime fish.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

The Plaza's restored heritage-French dining room, recipes excavated from two-and-a-half centuries of menus.

Two Michelin since 1946, the institution where Paris learned modern restaurant service.

Place de la Madeleine institution since 1839, Hugo Bourny's contemporary take on the Art Nouveau room.

Stéphanie Le Quellec's two-Michelin counter-front room on avenue Matignon.